Apology, and a Quick Note About Pants

I'm sorry for the hiatus over the past week, I just moved into a new apartment in San Francisco, and we didn't have internet until today. Sorry about that!

So, anyways, on with the clothing talk:

I’m a full-time student with a part-time job (at PacSun, where the “brand reps” don’t know what a henley is), so I almost exclusively wear jeans, cords, and chinos. However, I’ve never felt limited by this, because of how many colors and styles they come in. In my opinion, a guy doesn’t need a million pairs of trousers, as long as he has a dark pair (black, dark blue, brown), a medium pair (grey, blue, dark khaki), and a light pair (white, light blue, khaki), he’s covered. And, from there, you can start adding on some statement pieces and seasonal stuff (e.g., red cords, plaid trousers, linen slacks).

Again, this is just my opinion, and a humble one at that. Of course, this is also coming from a purely casual dresser, and my style of dress will obviously be different from a guy who has an office job. But I believe the take-away message is just the same.

Dress well, and be well!

How to Succeed in Hipness Without Really Trying

All puns aside, it’s not difficult to put together a stylish outfit if you have some simple pieces that fit correctly. In my opinion, there are five items every guy should have in his wardrobe. They are:

1.     Light blue button-up shirt.

2.     Levis 505, 511, or 513 jeans.

3.     Low-top sneakers that are in acceptable condition.

4.     A jacket that isn’t a hoody.

5.     A watch.

You’ll notice I didn’t put a suit on the list. That’s because I don’t believe that every guy 18+ needs to own a suit, to be honest. I certainly don’t own one, because I don’t work in an office and rarely go anywhere formal enough to actually require it. That being said, suits are awesome.

You’ll also notice the list lacking a necktie or bowtie. Although I wear them all the time (because I’m a damn dirty “hipster”), not every dude out there dresses like he’s going to Princeton (I do not attend Princeton).

So anyways, back to what is on the list.

*Note: The pictures I've included are from the internet as examples of some good choices (i.m.o.), and while I can't say they're all that cheap, I can assure you that these are pretty popular brands at thrift stores.

Light Blue Button-Up Shirt

Everyone looks good in blue; it’s a universally flattering color. It’s the most popular favorite color in the world, apparently, and it goes with pretty much everything. I actually can’t think of a pair of pants that wouldn’t go with a blue oxford, they are just that versatile. They’re also incredibly popular, so you should be able to go into any thrift store in the world and find one in your size for less than 10 bucks. Just make sure you don’t get anything too fancy if you’re going to wear it casually. If it’s long enough that it would make sense to tuck in, look for another one, or know that you should probably take that sucker into a tailor’s to get shortened.

Levis 505, 511, or 513 Jeans

505: Straight fit

511: Skinny fit

513: Slim fit

These are 513s.

I personally prefer Levis skinny fit jeans the best, especially the pairs that are made with some stretch (breaking my synthetic material rule). But all three of these are super comfortable, pretty damn stylish, and will last you more than a couple of years if you treat them right. Plus, they’re usually not more than about $50 new, not a bad price for a pair of jeans that’ll last three or more years. Or, if you’re not too picky about what fit and color you want, it’s almost impossible not to find a pair of Levis at a thrift or second-hand store. They’re classics.

Low-Top Sneakers That Are in Acceptable Condition

Converse All Stars freaking rock.

Cheap, easy to wear, and pretty much infinite in styles and colors. If you’re going for a classic style, there’s Converse, Keds, Vans (not the slip-ons, those are dorky), etc. For skate shoes (which I personally think are awesome) there are Adidas, Supras (their high-tops are legendary, but their low-tops ain’t bad), DC, and pretty much any shoe brand that has a skate team. I know Vans are also skate shoes, but you can’t say they’re not classic. Any of the brands I listed can be found used and cheap, so find a pair you think kick ass, and prepare to wear them all the time (hint: looking for second-hand footwear? eBay.).

I say "acceptable condition" because sneakers don't have to be kept in perfect condition to look good. You can beat them up, just make sure they're not falling apart. Getting a pair of good quality sneakers from a thrift store are a good investment – they'll cost as much as $15.00 and will last at least a year or so (more, if you treat them well).

Or, if you want a super unique pair of sneakers, and you have some extra bucks to spend, get a pair of Solerebels. It’s a great company based in Ethiopia that pays its workers 3x the average salary, provides them with healthcare, and sends their kids to school. But it’s not a charity, just a company run by people who care about their workers.

A Jacket That Isn’t A Hoody

Found on ebay.

It’s ok if you wear that super comfortable UCLA hoody to the grocery store, but if you’re trying to impress a lady (or gentleman), wear a jacket. This can be anything that’s comfortable and looks good: a denim jacket, a leather bomber, a thick cardigan, a blazer, anything. Just try getting it in a color that’s neutral (black, grey, dark blue, brown) so you can wear it with virtually anything in your closet.

A Watch

I don’t care if you get one that costs $4,000 or $4.00, just get a watch. Not a digital one either, but a classic timepiece (that doesn’t clash with your belt/shoes). For some reason, wearing a nice-looking watch makes women more attracted to you, and men take you more seriously. I think it’s because they make you look more mature, but who knows. Just trust me on this one.

Theoretically, you could get all five of these for as low as 50 bucks. And for five wardrobe staples that you’ll wear the hell out of for years, that’s a price worth paying.

The Remarkable Jacket Find

Hi, I’m Sam, and I’m extremely short. In fact, it’s to such a degree that I can never find jeans in my size, because the inseams are always too long (the horror, the horror!). Being in a constant state of broke-assness, this means most of my pants are ghetto-hemmed (read: folded and safety-pinned). My height has also, of course, made it difficult for me to find properly-fitting blazers and sport coats over the years. Whenever I find one that fits in the shoulders, it’s always too long in the arms (and lined, which puts the tailoring bill just out of my reach) or too long in general (with patch pockets, making it impossible to properly fix). That is, until a couple of days ago.

I found this beautiful tropical wool jacket as part of a suit, and it is the only jacket I’ve ever thrifted that didn’t need a single alteration. For only $9.99!

Two buttons (with a relatively high stance), flap pockets, four-button cuffs, slim fit with slim lapels: all aspects I look for in a great jacket. Made of this really beautiful summer-weight wool, with an almost contrasting stitch. The fabric is a bit darker than this picture portrays it (I really need to get a camera), but you can see that great texture, right? I love it. Tailored in the States, by Nordstrom. A richer fellow than I originally paid for this beautiful thing.

According to the label, it’s a size 36/30. I’m going to go ahead and assume that translates to 36 Short, because that’s about how it fits, and I don’t know a whole lot about tailoring (although my family comes from a line of tailors). The guy's original custom order is still in it, which I think is pretty cool. I didn't know Nordstrom made custom suits, but apparently they either do or did. 

Plus it's union made! That definitely sold me, since my great-grandparents were early members of the International Ladies' Garment Workers' Union. 

It would have been great to wear as a suit, but the pants were way too small. They weren’t labeled, but I’d estimate they were around a size 26x26. Seriously, those things were tiny. My bet is that it was some kid’s Bar-Mitzvah suit that he wore for a full day and then donated. That’s a bit of a depressing revelation...

I've worn it twice already: once with a white short-sleeved button-up, khakis, and Toms, the other with a black v-neck, dark jeans, and low-tops. I'll wear it more formally when it gets a little cooler (to Hell with Spring/Summer, I live in California– I'll be wearing this jacket until November), maybe over a sweater and blue oxford.

The Little Things

This morning, as a completely random surprise, my sister bestowed upon me this little guy:

Yes, it's a knit bow tie. The strap even has a button on it so that it can be fastened and unfastened like a clip-on (but clearly much cooler). I don't knit, so this looks pretty complicated to me, but my sister assured me that it was quite simple.

Now to wait for colder weather so I can rock it with a nice cashmere sweater.

On the Topic of Ties

I recently decided to revamp my tie collection, and have had surprisingly good luck at the thrift stores around my house. Just in the past couple of weeks, I found five ties to add, all for less than three dollars.

I apologize in advance for the low quality pictures. I'm sans camera right now and using my phone for the time being. Anyways, first off is the polka dots from Goodwill:

My phone can't pick up how well the red and navy blue contrast, it's perfect.

Then there's the yellow patterned tie from a little thrift store in Orange County called A New Day. I know people say to keep the best thrift spots a secret, but the owner is super nice and friendly, and she always tells me to refer people. So, here I am referring the handful of people who have ever read my blog to it.

 The lightweight grey striped tie from Salvation Army:

The fabric is a super lightweight silk, and I mean super lightweight. It's almost paper thin, so perfect for late summer.

The blue and white dots from Salvation Army:

Again, my phone can't quite get the color of this one right, it's this amazing pale blue, but it's also super saturated. It goes with everything, too.

And, last but not least, this strange piece of work, from Goodwill:

I have no idea what compelled me to get this, other than it was just so different. I doubt I'll wear it any time soon, but when I find an occasion to do so, it'll be awesome. And for two dollars, I'm not complaining.

 *A note about Salvation Army: No, I don't support their politics. I think their public condemnation of homosexuality is an affront to the community that they serve. However, I also think they do more good than bad, and so I do still shop there. Is it bad of me to still support their business? Probably. But I'm a weak-willed individual when it comes to cheap ties.

A Quick Note About Bow Ties

I love wearing ties. This is probably because I’ve never been forced to wear one, and have only ever worn them by choice, because they’re super awesome.

And then there’s bow ties. I love wearing them as well. The Doctor thinks they're cool, and if they’re cool enough for a Time Lord, they’re cool enough for me. And you. But bow ties have recently gotten a bad rep because of how often they’re worn unstylishly (this isn’t a word in the dictionary, but it should be). From IT guys who don’t know how to tie a tie (no offense to any IT guys out there) to hip kids who are trying to look “fashionable” to the high school Chess Club (no offense to any chess club members out there), the bow tie is probably one of the most ill-worn accessories out there. And, subsequently, that means they’re often deemed “uncool” by the public.

The Doctor: "Bow ties are cool."

This is a tragedy, truly. For the bow tie is a piece of pure class and swagger, and it’s a shame that its reputation has been so muddled. I think, when worn with a button-down, v-neck sweater, dark jeans, and low-top sneakers, bow ties look incredibly sharp.

The only downside? Well-crafted bow ties aren’t anywhere near as abundant as well-crafted neck ties. 

Thrifting Rules (That Are More Guidelines Than Actual Rules)

I’m sure these guidelines are already floating around the internet in some form or another, but in my opinion there are steps one can take in order to thrift more successfully. When I’m going through a rack of second-hand apparel, I go through this list, in this order:

1.     Size. If it’s bigger than my largest label size (for shirts my cut-off size is medium or a 15 ½ neck, for pants it’s 33W) I’ll pass on it. The same obviously goes for if it’s too small. I’ve wasted more than a few dollars on clothing that doesn’t actually fit, and they end up being re-donated at the end of the year anyways. I know a good tailor can basically make anything fit right, but if you’re going to be spending that much money on alterations, you might as well buy it new.

2.     Brand. I do it, you do it, we all do it. Everyone is partial to specific brands, whether due to experience, a good reputation, or even superior advertisement. But that’s not what I’m talking about. This step is to eliminate the bad stuff, not just single out the good. When thrifting, I don’t spend any time on a piece if it’s from a brand I know I can’t trust. You know the kind I’m talking about: brands that sell poorly-constructed clothing from low-quality fabric made by underpaid workers in factories that mass-produce these cheap items in order to maximize profit. If it’s from Old Navy, skip it. If it’s from L.L. Bean, move on to the next step.

3.     Material. I don’t care how cheap it is, I don’t want to own a 100% polyester shirt. If you’re less picky than I am, this won’t be as big a deal, but I’m of the opinion that the fabric makes the garment. You can be the greatest tailor in the world, but if the fabric is cheap, so is the piece you’re making. I try to mostly buy clothing that’s made without synthetic fibers, but everyone breaks their own rules on occasion.

4.     Country of origin. It’s no secret that most American clothing companies outsource their labor to countries like China, Bangladesh, and Vietnam; and that doesn’t mean that you can’t find a well-made piece of clothing from any of these locations. However, the reason that jobs are being outsourced is because it saves companies money, and a company that focuses on cost-efficiency is probably going to produce a lower-quality product than, say, J. Press, which makes most of their clothing in US factories (where we have a multitude of labor laws that don’t exist in other countries).

At this point, if you’ve followed these guidelines (at least partially), you should have a handful of well-crafted items in your basket (or draped on your arm if you’re like me). Now find your way to a fitting room, and try on everything. If it fits, great! You’ve found a quality piece of clothing for a fraction of its original cost. If it doesn’t fit, don’t try to convince yourself that it does. I once bought this really cool 100% linen henley ($2.99) that was too big, thinking that as long as I matched it with the right pants it would look fine. I never wore it, and ended up giving it to Goodwill the next summer. And even though I only wasted three dollars, the point still stands. Those are three dollars I could’ve spent on an Italian silk tie (thrift stores are bursting with beautifully-made ties for a couple of bucks) or a Mexican Pizza from Taco Bell (talk about quality).

I guess the fifth step on this list should really be price, but I’ve so rarely encountered an over-priced item at a thrift store that I didn’t think it was even worth mentioning. That being said, the Salvation Army by my house has a habit of pricing jackets and sweaters at pretty steep prices, so maybe I really should add it to the list. Then again, if you’re at a thrift store, it’s because you’re on a tight budget like me, so you’re probably paying close attention to the price tag as it is.

Happy thrifting! And remember, the most important part of any shopping trip is finding something you’ll love to use. So don’t waste any time or money on something you don’t quite like.

Trusted Footwear

My favorite blogger, Giuseppe, once posted his collection of shoes, and given how important they are, I thought I would follow suit (AKA I'm copying).

I don't have a huge collection of shoes, but the ones I have are trusty and versatile.

On the left I have: Grey corduroy Toms, Teal checkered Vans, Light blue knockoff Converse, Maroon Adidas (Dennis Busenitz pro model). These are my most casual shoes, and together they go with just about everything in my dresser. I'm still waiting to come across a pair of white low-tops to round out the casual selection.

On the right I have: Brown leather saddle shoes (Nunn Bush), Brown snakeskin tassel loafers (Stacy Adams), Brown and Tan boat boots (Sperry's), and Black fake suede desert boots (unlabeled). While all of these are arguably casual as well, they're my more dressy shoes. They too go with every outfit I can put together, between the four pairs. I'm still on the hunt for a pair of black wingtips (my feet are a size 8, so thrifting for shoes is often disappointing), and I recently had to part with my boat shoes, so I need to replace those.

Of course, given that I live in California, I barely touched any of these this whole summer. The perks of living somewhat near the beach: sandals are acceptable footwear pretty much everywhere. So for the past two months I've been rocking a pair of Rainbows on the days when it gets above 80º.

Clearly my shoe collection is a bit lacking, but so is my monthly income, and I make do with what I've got.

Take-away tip: Buy shoes that you like, make sure they go with the rest of your wardrobe, and rock 'em like a hurricane.

Welcome!

Welcome to How to be Hip, a blog about being a stylish and awesome man, even when your wallet’s close to empty. I won’t pretend to be an expert on the subject, but I know enough to pass on some of my knowledge to the internet, and hopefully help a few fellas out.

To preface, I get the majority of my clothing from thrift and second-hand stores. While this isn’t the only way to acquire decently-priced swagger, it definitely helps in keeping those hard-earned dollars safely in your wallet. Plus, the “thrill of the thrift,” as it’s sometimes called, is just that– thrilling. The sensation you get from finding a lambswool sweater for only seven bucks is pretty great, so you can only imagine what it’s like to pick up a pair of Italian leather shoes for less than a sit-down meal. Or perhaps you don't have to imagine, you lucky S.O.B.

An aspect of style that I find has great importance to me is the color palette of whatever outfit I wear. I used to study graphic design, and I’ve learned that the right combination of colors can really make the difference between hip and “I-was-dressed-by-the-internet-this-morning.” I’m thinking I might do some full posts on my favorite color-ways later on, but for now let me leave you with this quick tip for the guys who are just starting out:

Throw away all of your white socks. Yes, all of them. Unless you’re one of those people that actually works out and owns a pair of running shoes (in which case I applaud you), or you’re from Chicago (like the White Sox, get it?), you shouldn’t own any. Go replace them with a bunch of black socks, and maybe a few pairs of brown and/or navy (or Red). The reason you shouldn’t be wearing them has to do with how you match your socks to the rest of your outfit. You want to choose a pair of socks that go with your pants, and because you’re probably not wearing white denim every day, there’s no reason to grab a pair of athletic socks every morning.

Well done, you’ve completed your first step towards pure and unadulterated swag.

So come on in, the blog-water’s fine. Maybe even stay a while.